January 16, 2020
Best of 2019 – Colognoisseur.com
Best of 2019 – ÇaFleureBon.com
Honey is notorious for its refractory nature and narrow band where it finds some joy as part of a fragrance. One of the smart things Sig. Canali (perfumer of Bee) does is to use beeswax as a surrogate for honey. It allows for there to be less of the actual material. It also allows for him to pick up on the animalic worker bee hum underneath the waxy sweetness. By weaving in a selection of florals, resins, musks and sandalwood he once again builds a multi-layered ode to creative perfumery.
Have you ever been walking along the street and suddenly feel so good that you burst into a run? Zoologist Bee is that for me – a burst of positivity that settles on you like a blessing you don’t remember asking for. The perfume doesn’t seem to be particularly complicated, but the trick it performs is by no means simple; effortlessness, or at least the impression of it, always requires an invisible-to-the-naked-nose system of levers and pulleys operating under the surface.
I raise my wrist a third time and inhale. There’s a familiarity in this scent, but for the longest time I am not sure what it is. By the dry-down, which brings counterbalancing woody notes and a specific time and place that now echoes back quietly. Smelling Bee again, I see the route above the fields along the River Cam as it was decades ago. The air hangs quiet and sleepy with late spring flowers, myriad insects hum busily about the grasses on the bankside. Approaching the Old Vicarage, teacups clink and the smell of bitter orange beckons ever so slightly as Earl Grey is poured. This is Zoologist Bee. A barely perceptible tendril of incense seeps from the nearby churchyard. I am in Grantchester again.
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February 28, 2021
December 01, 2020